As you drive down the A484 from Carmarthen to Llanelli, Kidwelly castle catches your eye on the right hand side of the road, standing tall and proud against the pearly skyline of the estuary, the salt marshes and Carmarthen Bay.
Historic Kidwelly
Kidwelly castle is one of four castles built by the invading Normans to control strategic river estuaries in south west Wales. The other three are Loughor, Laugharne and Llansteffan, all conveniently situated around Carmarthen Bay for anyone who fancies a day out castle hopping. These estuaries were important not only for trade, but also because their bays and inlets would make excellent hiding places for rebel troops. It was therefore vital for the Norman invaders to keep control of key crossings and meeting points.
The castle at Kidwelly was built by Bishop Roger of Salisbury in the early twelfth century. It overlooks the estuary of the river Gwendraeth Fach. In medieval times, Kidwelly was one of the busiest commercial and trading centres in Wales, vibrant, strategically important and fought over by the native Welsh and invading English for centuries. It was only when the river Gwendraeth silted up that Kidwelly's economic and strategic importance declined, although it was revived in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries with the export of coal and establishment of an important tinplate works by Thomas Kymer.
Princess Gwenllian
The most important historical figure associated with Kidwelly is the Princess Gwenllian. Gwenllian was the daughter of Gruffydd ap Cynan, prince of Gwynedd in the north of Wales, and sister of Owain Gwynedd. She was known as the most beautiful woman in Wales at the time, and was wooed by Gruffydd ap Rhys, lord of the Deheubarth (south west Wales). They eloped and she became his consort, but their lives were continually punctuated by conflict with the Norman invaders.
In 1136, soon after the death of Henry I, the southern Welsh rose up against the Normans. Gwenllian's husband was in Gwynedd, trying to secure the support of her father and his armies for the coming conflict. In his absence, Gwenllian donned a suit of armour and led her army into battle.
This medieval Boadicea was defeated and beheaded, but is still remembered in Kidwelly today. Maes Gwenllian (Gwenllian's field) is the reputed battlefield just north of the town and Ffynnon Gwenllian is a freshwater spring reputed to have appeared where her head fell. There is a legend that Gwenllian's ghost haunted Kidwelly castle until her skull was recovered from the battlefield and buried with the rest of her body. Kidwelly castle is certainly ancient enough and atmospheric enough to be home to any number of ghosts!
Out and About Near Kidwelly Castle
If you visit Kidwelly castle, approaching from the east you will pass the castle at Loughor and may stop to admire Brunel's rail bridge which crosses the tempestuous Loughor estuary. Approaching from the west, Laugharne and Llansteffan castles can also be visited.
The picturesque village of Ferryside lies across the estuary from Llansteffan and just over the hill and across the marsh from Kidwelly. This part of Wales may not feature large in most people's tourist map of Wales, but there's plenty to see and do in little, ancient Welsh villages not far off the beaten track. These four Norman castles would be easy to visit one weekend in summer; their wonderful locations amidst spectacular coastal scenery would be quite a treat for any tourist with a taste for history!
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