When the trees are stark and leafless, the evenings dark and the drizzle persistent, perhaps one's thoughts don't automatically turn to days out in west Wales. Yet out of season, the roads are quiet, the scenery is stark but awesome and there's something magical about having the whole damn' place to yourself.
Not many people have sat in their car watching the winter tides roll in to the harbour in Aberaeron whilst eating delicious fresh fish and chips straight out of the paper – it's a much under rated gastronomic experience, well worth a try! The fish and chip shop closest to the harbour (the New Celtic Restaurant) makes proper hand cut chips from real potatoes and fries its fish in the lightest and crispest of batters. If the weather's truly dreadful, there's also a cafe behind the chip shop with charming harbour views.
Megaliths and Castles
Wales is famous as a land of castles, and has more than 400 castles in various states of disrepair dotted about the country. Admittedly, visiting a ruined castle in summer time as the swallows swoop overhead can be blissful, but visiting in winter is more atmospheric and gives a real taste of chilly medieval authenticity.
In west Wales, there are plenty of castles to choose from. There's ancient Kidwelly, massive, imposing Pembroke, Cilgerran with its steep walkways and terrifying view down to the river far below and Manorbier, perhaps the most magical of all, the archetypal seaside castle so close to the past that you can almost reach out and touch it.
Manorbier was used as a location for the tv adaptation of The Lion,The Witch and the Wardrobe, and although the interior is closed to the public in the depths of winter, there's still enough scope for a brisk walk around the perimeter in wintertime and ample views to admire.
As well as castles. west Wales is blessed with ancient standing stones and relics of prehistoric times. There are Ogham stones complete with runic inscriptions to be found in Cilgerran, Sealyham and other locations in the area, not to mention King Arthur's Seat, perched up on Gower's Cefn Bryn. If you take a walk to this particular ancient monument, the view out over Carmarthen Bay and the north Gower marshes is breathtaking and must have been of great strategic importance to prehistoric man. No tribal raid or foreign army could creep up unawares on those who lived around King Arthur's Seat.
Shopping and Eating
If cold grey stones lose their appeal after a while, there are plenty of other things to do and see in west Wales, summer or winter.
Narberth is a bustling little town on the A478, full of shops,restaurants and galleries. Ultracomida (delicatessen and restaurant) deserves a special mention for its fine array of Spanish wines, cheeses and olives; it also stocks a wide selection of turron, if you're a lover of that Spanish almond delicacy.
If you happen to be in Pembrokeshire on a Friday, it's worth making the effort to visit Haverfordwest's Riverside market, partly for the incomparable location but also for the tempting array of local produce on offer.
Tenby is picturesque at any time of the year and there are always a few pubs and shops open for a warming hot chocolate or coffee even if you vist out of season.
In Carmarthen, the renovated market and the new shopping centre combined with the Oriel Myrddin Gallery and an assortment of independent shops make for an interesting day out (Caban y Dderwen does food with a local flavour whilst Ginger is a popular Indian restaurant).
For a city based day out, the hustle and bustle of Swansea with shops,bars, cinemas, the National Waterfront Museum and the still developing SA1 marina district makes a convenient base for out of season adventures, with the added bonus of the Waterfront Winterland attraction if you should happen to visit around Christmas time.
West Wales out of season is a place of warm pubs, empty roads and rural tranquillity – quite a good destination for a relaxing winter break, in fact!
